After a lengthy hiatus, I am finally back on track. Julie even complained to me that she and one of her friends were re-living the trip with my blog. Sorry! So here we go. This one is a bit longer, but we stayed in Florence longer so there is much more to write about. Hopefully you remember where i left off...
Also, I will just touch on the highlights from now on and won't go day-by-day. We arrived the evening of September 26 and left the morning of September 30.
We couldn’t leave Cinque Terre
without some kind of drama, right? We
wanted to catch an early train out of Corniglia and no one came to get us at
8:30 a.m. as we had requested. I saw an
older man with an old, dirty jeep outside so I asked him for a ride. Older Italians most likely equal “don’t speak much English.” After much
discussion between him and the woman who worked the breakfast area, he agreed to drive us. It turns out he is the family patriarch, Carlos. His son, Ivan, is the man who now runs the
restaurant and the farm house. Julie squeezed
herself into the back of the jeep and later told me she almost passed out from
lack of air back there. Despite Carlos’
limited English, he turned out to be pleasant and even drove us right to the
train station instead of dropping us off at the bus stop. As we left him, we gave him money for petrol
and I kissed him on both cheeks. I think
I shocked the heck out of him, but he seemed to like it.
On our way to Florence we stopped
in Lucca, thanks to a tip from a friend. We stored our luggage at a
tourist shop and rented bikes to ride around the top of the city wall (two
miles – we rented them for an hour).
Very cool! After that we walked
around the city and had pizza for lunch.
I had to have Lucca Pizza (although the restaurant in the States spells
it wrong). Best pizza of the trip! Lucca also has a nice market. It's a lovely town. I would love to come back and spend more
time.
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I know - no helmet. When in Lucca! |
We arrived in Florence around 6
p.m. Hotel Monica was clean, but
otherwise ok. We laughed because the neon
sign outside the door listed it as two stars.
Only the best! It did have a nice
rooftop patio where we ate breakfast. We
basically could look into other people’s windows, but it had nice plants and
the sun was out each morning, so was a nice way to start the day. Breakfast did not have the variety of the
others but was still good. I settled on
rolls with sliced ham and cheese, and cereal.
After reading some of the touring
books, we noticed that they all recommended “doing as the Italians do” and
ordering a first and second course. Apparently it would be frowned upon if you didn’t. In Florence I succumbed to the pressure at
our first dinner. My first course was
spaghetti with oil and chili spice, and my second course was chicken and mashed
potatoes. The first course was the size
of a main course. I ate every bite of everything and didn't even feel full! What I did feel was a lighter pocketbook - I spent
close to $30 on dinner. Enough of
that! My next dinner in Florence was lasagna and a salad. Still tasty but a
more manageable size and price.
Florence has markets and street
vendors everywhere. Purses, scarves,
leather coats. I’m glad I got Megan’s
purse in Venice as things are more expensive here. They did have good deals on silk ties so we
both bought ties for the men in our families.
We also found an inside market - Mercato Centrale Firenze. Amazing!
We spent about two hours wandering around looking at all the meats,
cheeses, vegetables, etc. I highly
recommend a stop at this market.
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I took so many pictures of the market. One doesn't do it justice! |
The Duomo here looks like a
mirage. Or a pencil sketch. The exterior is made up of pink, green and
white marble. It’s massive. We stood in line to get in and Julie was
initially denied because her shorts were too…well, short. Other women wearing skirts shorter than her
shorts were let in so it made no sense.
She finally unrolled the cuffs of her shorts so they were close to her
knees and they let her in.
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The inside of the Duomo dome. |
After the Duomo itself, we walked
up the 414 steps of the campanille (tower) next to the Duomo. People go up and down the same, narrow,
winding staircase. It was not fun, but
we were rewarded with a wonderful view of the city. It usually costs extra to walk up these
towers. I felt like it was worth
it. Plus it was good cardio!
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Yes, we walked up to the top of this! |
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And got to see this! |
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And this! |
Ponte Vecchio is a famous bridge
filled with high end jewelry shops.
I’ve never seen anything like it.
So much sparkle! The bridge is so
jam-packed with people you feel like a herd of cattle crossing it. I found a shop just off of the bridge that
had a tiny silver fleur-de-lis necklace charm for six euros. I can afford that! We did come back at night and all was quiet. The shops have heavy wood doors/walls that
cover all the glass for protection.
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The outside of the bridge seen from the river. |
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So shiny! |
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Ponte Vecchio at night. Locked tight. |
While crossing the bridge I saw a
man out of the corner of my eye – he pulled down the pants of his young
daughter (maybe 3 or 4 years old), lifted her legs up so her behind was away
from him (and she was partly upside down), and she started to pee. A nice, steady stream came out of her. Wow. I
have never seen that before!
Before seeing the real
Michelangelo, we took a long walk to the outskirts of town to the Piazza di
Michelangelo to see the fake one. Lots
more steps, but again, the view was worth it and we got to see some other cool
things along the way, like a gelato shop where Paul Newman had visited
(Gelateria Vivaldi – they had photos on the wall), and a German Lutheran church
(my mother would be so happy!). We sat
on a bench enjoying our gelato and looking across the Arno River.
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One of my fav photos of the trip. This was on the way up to the Piazza di Michelangelo. |
Florence was the only place we
really did the museum thing. The first
museum was the Accademia, which is where the “real” David lives. What an amazing statue!
David stands 14’3”. (Definitely meets my height
requirement!) I read in a Rick Steves
book that the statue was made disproportionate on purpose. The upper body and head are larger than the
bottom. It was originally made to be
seen from far away and from below (it was supposed to be on top of a
cathedral). And I read that his right
hand is larger than his left because in the Middle Ages David was said to be of
“manu fortis” – strong of hand. Regardless, it’s just an amazing piece of art.
We looked at him for quite a while.
“That’s David!” The rest of the
museum was a lot of plaster casts, other statues and some other art.
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"That's David! " |
While standing in line to see
David, we did see some amusing souvenirs for sale that related to him. It’s all about the penis! Penis calendars, boxers and aprons. I was tempted to buy the boxers but didn’t
really have anyone to give them to. I
certainly wouldn’t wear them!
The next museum we hit was the
Uffizi Gallery, which is one of the oldest and most famous art museums of
Europe and the world. It’s really
big and has lots of statues. We were in there around 1 ½ hours but it felt
like longer. I do appreciate looking at
all of the amazing art but I can only take so much at one time. I do have to show one (two, really) paintings from the Uffizi. The one is the front of a dwarf named Morgante. The other is the backside. Too funny!
Our last museum in Florence was
the Ferragamo Museum. As in Salvatore Ferragamo,
the famous shoe designer. Actually, he
was more than just a designer. He
studied human anatomy, chemical engineering and mathematics, all to make the
most comfortable shoe possible. The
museum was downstairs from the actual store so we took some time to
browse the store afterward. I was tempted to buy a pair of
shoes, but with them starting at 350 euros (over $400), I decided not to
splurge. This time. Julie could afford to buy a
postcard for one euro but was “shamed”.
She went to one counter to pay, but was told it was a special shoe
counter. She went to the other counter
to pay with a 5, and the woman didn’t have any change in her drawer. I had some change and helped her out, then
we got out.
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Again, too many photos of this museum! All the shoes on the back wall are from celebrities like Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Audrey Hepburn, etc. |
After Ferragamo we happened to go
into the Fendi store. I loved the little
“keychain" hanging in the window. Julie
told me it looked like me at night when I have my sleep mask on. The saleswoman was very friendly and walked
with us upstairs, where she promptly put a coat on Julie. (People were always putting coats on
Julie. Probably because they knew they
wouldn’t fit me.) It was a beautiful
winter coat and fit her perfectly. It
was also 3,500 euros (around $4,300).
Yowza! We got out of there fast
too.
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This was not the coat Julie tried on. This is my little mini me with the sleep mask. |
As we walked down the street we
saw two men talking. One was dressed all
in white, with an off-white scarf. Very
stylish! When he saw us he said he loved
tall people and that he was a designer.
His name was Fillipo and his friend was Nicholas. Nicholas turned out to be an American who now
lives in Florence. Fillipo told us we
looked European, which by his definition meant that we were not fat. He invited us to his store, so, of course, we
followed him. Along the way I told Julie
that if we turned into an alley we would run away from them! We walked and talked – his shop was along the
river. It was very nice and after we
arrived he offered us wine. Sure! Fillipo disappeared into the back of the
store so Nicholas turned on his sales charm.
(He was very cute and fairly tall, but married.) Of course, he brought out a leather coat for
Julie to try on. It was lightweight, reversible leather. Beautiful! It was also over 2,000 euros. Gulp.
He offered a discount but it was still pricey. We finally had to tell him that we couldn’t
afford anything in the store. Goodbye
Fillipo and Nicholas. And goodbye
wine.
Our one extra “excursion” while
in Florence was a Tuscany wine tour. We
walked to the train station and had to meet our tour bus at 2:30 p.m. We got there at 1:45 p.m. Always the planner, I wanted to get our train
tickets for the next day ahead of time.
I tried to buy them at the kiosk but the machine wouldn’t take our
credit cards. I took a ticket at the
window to buy from a person – No. 898.
They were only on a number in the 700s.
Agh!! We found out where to meet our bus and Julie stood there to make
sure they didn’t leave me. I decided to
stay at the ticket area to see if I could beat the clock. My eyes darted constantly from Julie at the
bus (I could see her through the glass doors) to the clock on the wall, then to
the scrolling ticket numbers. I felt
like I was gambling! “C’mon No.
898!” What seemed impossible at first
then started to get exciting. The
numbers started flipping faster. Here we
go! C’mon 898! At around 2:25 p.m. my number came up! YESSS!
I ran to the window and blurted out my ticket request. I did it! Julie just shook her head when I
got to the bus. We got on and sat next
to a side door. The seat in front of us
was pushed up so people could get on. We
didn’t push it back and had so much leg room.
Awesome! Hey, it's all about the legroom people.
Our first stop on the wine tour
was the Poggio Amorelli Winery. We had a
full wine tasting of Sangiovese grapes (one white and three reds), olive oil, 12-to 20-year-old balsamic vinegar and truffle oil. We also had some bread and cheese. The wine was very good. I usually don’t like wine and therefore,
rarely drink it. With the amount I drank
in a short period of time I felt a little happy when we left! We had sat outside in a covered area with our
group of about 30 people. We chatted
with two ladies from New York, a couple from New Jersey and another couple from
Napa who were on their honeymoon. Before
we boarded the bus we were able to take photos of the countryside. Amazing!!!
I would definitely like to come back and spend more time in
Tuscany.
Next stop was the small, walled
town of Monteriggioni. How small? Approximately 600 people live here. The winery here was Vino Arte Artigiamato. This one was a quicker tasting. We stood in the cellar-type lower level and
listened to the woman talk – she was very entertaining and interacted well with
the group.
Our last stop on the Tuscany tour
was Siena, a much larger town. We walked
through town to the Piazza del Campo, where they hold a horse race, the Palio di
Siena, around the edges of the piazza twice a year. It is enormous! I’ve never seen anything like it. We had dinner at a restaurant in the piazza –
meats, bruschetta, a huge pizza and gelato.
So much food! We sat next to a
couple from Quebec who are hot-spring hunters.
They go around the world to sit in natural hot springs. We’ve met so many interesting people! Our fabulous day ended back at the Florence train station at 10 p.m. The next day we were off to Rome.
When we first arrived in Florence I wasn't sure what I thought of it. We had been in mostly small towns before this, and it was an adjustment to figure out where everything was. Once we got the hang of it, it was much more enjoyable. There's so much to do here! I would definitely like to come back.
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